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Frequently Asked Questions

  • 1. Health
  • 2. Training
  • 3. Website Troubleshooting
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  • 1. What is a medical emergency?
     

    A life-threatening emergency is an illness or injury that, if not treated immediately, could result in death of the dog. These are not common, but it is important that you know how to recognize them. In some cases, there are things you can do on the way to the vet to minimize damage or increase the likelihood of your dog’s recovery.

    Examples of a life-threatening emergency:

    • anti-freeze ingestion
    • bloat
    • electric Shock or Burns
    • eye trauma
    • fractures where bone is protruding through the skin
    • heat Stroke
    • poisoning
    • seizures lasting up to five minutes
    • severe repeat vomiting and/or diarrhea (see Vomiting / Diarrhea)
    • severe trauma (auto accident, severe cuts/lacerations, animal bites)
    • shock reaction (to vaccine, rarely to insect bites)
    • unconsciousness or weakness/inability to stand

    If a life-threatening emergency occurs, you should go to an emergency clinic first and contact the Guide Dogs vet while you are there.

    Depending on when a life-threatening emergency occurs, you will go to your assigned vet or a central emergency clinic in your area. You should know whether your assigned vet provides emergency services and, if so, during what hours; you should also know the driving directions and contact information for an emergency clinic in your area. It is a good idea to have this information printed out near your phone in case of emergency.

    Call the emergency clinic before leaving home to be sure they are there and to alert them to be ready for your arrival. Ask the emergency vet to provide life-supportive care. Life-supportive care is any procedure that, if not done at the time in question, would seriously compromise the dog’s health.

     

    Emergency Vets in the Brisbane Area

    Below are some emergency veterinary clinics. Please familiarise yourself with your closest emergency vet clinic should the need arise.

     

    Brisbane Veterinary Emergency & Critical Care Service (BVECCS)

    Address: 53 Old Northern Rd
    Suburb: Albany Creek
    Phone Number: 3264 9400
    Opening Hours:
    Mon: Midnight-8am; 6pm-8am
    Tue-Fri: 6pm-8am
    Sat & Sun: 24 hours

    Pet Emergency

    Address: 263 Appleby Rd
    Suburb: Stafford Heights
    Phone Number: 3359 5333
    Opening Hours:
    24 hours, 7 days a week

    Animal Emergency Centre Woolloongabba

    Address: 36 Balaclava St
    Suburb: Woolloongabba
    Phone Number: 3456 0500
    Opening Hours:

    Mon: Midnight-8am; 6pm-8am
    Tue-Fri: 6pm-8am
    Sat & Sun: 24 hours

    Manly Road 24hr Veterinary Hospital

    Address: 219 Manly Rd
    Suburb: Manly West
    Phone Number: 3396 9733
    Opening Hours:
    24 hours, 7 days a week

     

  • 2. What are some common illnesses I should be aware of?
     

    Your pup may develop one or more of the conditions discussed in this section. Puppy massage and body handling on a daily basis, including examination of the ears and skin, will help you identify any problem in the early stages, before it causes significant discomfort to the dog. Click on one of the topics below to go to the section about it.

    Quick Links:

    Bites, Wounds & Cuts

    Bite wounds and superficial cuts are rarely life-threatening and seldom urgent. If the dog has been bitten, there are usually two wounds (from upper and lower teeth). Wash the wounds thoroughly with soap and warm water. Apply pressure to stop any bleeding. If this treatment is insufficient, please contact our vet team for further instruction. You should continue to observe the wounds for signs of a secondary infection, such as a creamy discharge, foul smell, or excessive swelling. Prevent the dog from biting, licking, or scratching at the wounds, which can cause additional trauma. If your dog has severe cuts and/or bleeding, this may be a Life-Threatening Emergency.

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    Diarrhea

    Your dog may experience Uncomplicated Diarrhea (evacuation of watery stools without other signs of illness), especially if it has eaten grass or something outside. If the dog is alert, active, has a good appetite, and has a normal temperature, follow the steps below:

      • Observe the next bowel movement. If it is normal, there is no need for treatment. If it is not normal, follow the steps below.
        Skip the next meal. This allows the gastrointestinal tract to rest. Do this even if the pup does not have a bowel movement between the first episode of diarrhea and the scheduled time of the next meal.
        Administer frequent small amounts of water.
        Begin a bland diet. The first meal should consist of a Bland Diet amount equal to one third of the amount normally fed, and increase gradually to the normal amount over the next three meals. If diarrhea recurs, skip a meal and begin again with the bland diet. Feed bland meals until the stools are firm for a minimum of four consecutive bowel movements. If there is no response to bland diet, the dog has Complicated Diarrhea (see below).
        Once your dog has had four normal bowel movements, gradually mix in your dog’s normal food with the bland diet over the course of the next 4-5 days. Decrease the amount of dog food being added into the bland diet if the stools begin to soften again. Increase the amount of dog food as tolerated until the normal diet is re-established.
        Do not administer any over-the-counter drugs.

    Occasionally dogs will develop more serious diarrhea (Complicated Diarrhea) that requires veterinary attention. If your dog has any of the signs below, contact our vet immediately:

      • blood in the stool, lethargy, fever, vomiting, dehydration/ refusal of water.
        increased frequency of diarrhea or presence of above symptoms in addition to diarrhea over a 24 hour period.
        diarrhea that persists for more than 3 days in dogs over 12 weeks of age despite management.
        diarrhea that persists with no improvement for more than twelve hours in a puppy less than 12 weeks old (as young, small animals are more subject to more rapid electrolyte imbalance and dehydration).

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    Ear Infections

    Dogs can develop ear infections even if you are conscientious about ear cleaning. Signs of an ear infection include:

      • tilting of the head
        frequent or prolonged scratching of the ears or back of the head
        shaking the head or rubbing the side of the head along the floor
        brown debris in the ear despite ear cleaning
        odor or redness in the ear

    If you notice any of these signs in your dog, please contact us. The Guide Dogs QLD vet staff will consider the health care history of your dog and the description of the problem to recommend the best course of action for each particular dog.

    If your pup is given medication, make sure to medicate the ear for the entire treatment period prescribed. If the dog does not improve after several days of medication or continues to show signs of an ear infection after the entire course of treatment has been completed, please contact us.

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    Eye Injuries and Infections

    There are a number of signs you might notice that could indicate problems with your dog’s eyes, including discharge from the eye, squinting, pawing at the eye, cloudiness of the eye, or redness of the eye. A small amount of crusty discharge from the eye(s) when your dog awakens in the morning is probably normal.

    Dogs have three eyelids – an upper lid, lower lid, and a third eyelid that is normally retracted and barely visible in the bottom corner of the eye. If the third eyelid becomes significantly more obvious or there is swelling in this area, this is not an emergency; however, please contact our vet team for guidance.

    Continued discharge throughout the day is abnormal. Use cotton balls moistened with warm water to clean the area. Contact us if the problem does not resolve in 48 hours. Look carefully at both eyes to identify which eye (or both) are involved, and observe whether your dog is pawing at the eye, squinting, or avoiding bright light which would indicate pain and discomfort.

    A common reason for ocular discharge, especially in the spring and summer, is allergic conjunctivitis. Pollens that float in the air can land on the surface of the eye, and cause inflammation of the conjunctiva (the moist pink tissue lining the eyelids and eyeball). Allergic conjunctivitis is almost always found in both eyes at the same time. Most dogs have eyes that look reddened and have constant discharge throughout the day that may be watery or mucous-like, and green or clear. Dogs that suffer from allergic conjunctivitis require eye drops or ointment that needs to be given in many cases for two to four months.

    It is possible that your dog has a bacterial or viral infection of the conjunctiva. Unlike allergic conjunctivitis, bacterial or viral conjunctivitis may be transmitted to other dogs.

    Young puppies can get entropion, a condition in which the lower eyelids roll inward. This causes the fur to touch the cornea (clear surface of the eyeball), causing irritation. Your pup may squint or paw at the eyes, and have a clear, watery discharge sometimes accompanied by cloudiness of the eye. Less common is ectropion, the opposite condition, in which the lower eyelids roll outwards, exposing the conjunctiva. In severe cases of ectropion, dust and pollens enter the eye, and the conjunctiva becomes dry from exposure. Sometimes surgery is required to correct entropion and ectropion.

    If only one eye is affected with redness, cloudiness, and/or discharge, and your dog is pawing at the eye, squinting, and/or avoiding bright light, it is most likely that your dog has a scratch, abrasion, or ulcer on the cornea. Any of these conditions require quick and aggressive treatment to alleviate pain and prevent further problems. Please contact us as soon as you notice your dog affected with one of these signs.

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    Heat Stroke (Hyperthermia)

    When the warm weather is upon us, please be sure to take precautions to keep your dog safe and comfortable when traveling. It’s unlawful to leave an animal unattended in a parked vehicle. Please review the following to help you and your Guide Puppy enjoy the summer.
    Hyperthermia may be a life-threatening condition, and requires immediate treatment. It can occur when:
    • Dogs are left in hot vehicles
    • An animal is left outdoors in hot/humid conditions without adequate shade.
    • A dog is exercised in hot/humid weather.
    • An animal is left in a car on a relatively cool (70°F) day; car temps can soar 40° above outside temps within a surprisingly short time
    • Other medical conditions cause a rise in body temperature to dangerous levels when the animal is at rest on a warm day.
    Signs of Heat Stroke include:
    • Distress
    • Panting heavily (later stage, large amounts of drooling)
    • Unsteady on feet, disoriented
    • Gums turning blue/purple or bright red
    What to do:
    • Remove your dog from the environment where the hyperthermia occurred.
    • Move your dog to shaded and cool environment, and direct a fan on her.
    • If possible, determine rectal temperature and record it.
    • Begin to cool the body by placing cool, wet towels over the back of the neck, in the armpits, and in the groin region. You may also wet the ear flaps and paws with cool water. Directing a fan on these wetted areas will help to speed evaporative cooling.
    • Transport to the closest veterinary facility immediately.

    What not to do:

    • Do not use cold water or ice for cooling.
    • Do not overcool the dog.
    • Do not attempt to force water into your dog’s mouth, but you may have fresh cool water ready to offer should your dog be alert and show an interest in drinking.
    • Do not leave your dog unattended for any length of time.
    • A dog suffering from hyperthermia should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Remember to refer to the Guide Dogs QLD emergency veterinary protocol.

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    Insect Stings

    If your dog is bitten or stung by an insect or spider, the dog may have a reaction which could include swelling, redness, and/or itching. Swelling to the face can be somewhat alarming. If your dog is bitten or stung:

      • Apply cool compresses to the area (e.g., washcloth soaked in cold water, or ice wrapped in a towel).
        Contact the Guide Dogs QLD vet team.
        If at any time your dog has difficulty breathing, take your dog to the vet immediately.

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    Lameness or Limping

    If your dog suddenly begins limping, there are many potential causes, including:

    • trauma to the soft tissues (including the footpads, muscles, ligaments, or tendons)
    • Examine the legs and paws carefully. The dog may have pododermatitis (irritation of the skin on the paws), especially if the dog is biting, chewing, or licking the paws. Contact our vet team.
    • If there is no evidence of obvious trauma, put your dog on crate-rest (crating except for feeding and elimination breaks) and contact our vet team.
    • If the lameness worsens or the dog is in discomfort even at rest, contact us.
    • Do not administer any oral anti-inflammatory medication without consulting with Guiding Eyes vets first. Some human anti-inflammatory drugs (e.g., Ibuprofen) can be toxic to dogs.
    • Examine the legs and paws carefully. If there is evidence of obvious trauma (such as a protruding bone fracture or obvious dislocation), take your dog to the vet immediately.
    • Panosteitis is another common potential cause of limping. “Pano” is a lameness occurring primarily in large-breed dogs while they are growing.
    • Elbow dysplasia, hip dysplasia, and medial patellar luxation are a number of orthopedic diseases that affect the breeds we use as guide dogs. A veterinary exam and x-rays are usually needed to diagnose these conditions. Unfortunately, dogs diagnosed with these problems must be released from the program.

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    Obesity

    Obesity is a common condition that shortens the lifespan of Guide Dogs by an average of two years. Be kind to your dog by keeping them trim and healthy, and following the strict diet prescribed to our Guide Dog colony. Our teams will be regularly monitoring your dog’s weight and will put in place a diet intervention if necessary. The following tips will help you gradually reduce your dog’s weight if your dog is overweight.

    • Puppies that are overfed and grow too rapidly are at much higher risk of developing orthopedic diseases that can disable them for life, and prevent them from becoming guide dogs.
    • Don’t feed dog biscuits and treats. They are loaded with calories.
    • Give one kibble of your dog’s daily ration when you want to reward with treats. Dogs don’t care what type of food it is and this way, there is no chance of gaining weight.
    • Make sure any kibble used for food training is subtracted from the daily food ration.
    • The amount of food needed to maintain your dog’s healthy weight drops dramatically at puberty (about 10 months of age), often to one-half of the amount fed during the growth period. Check with your Educator if you suspect your dog’s diet needs changing.
    • Prevent access to eating other pet food such as cat food.
    • Increase your pup’s daily exercise.

    It is a violation of your agreement with Guide Dogs Queensland if your dog is overweight or obese. It is grounds for removal of the dog from your care. We would much rather help you in returning your dog to its target weight. If you are having trouble maintaining your dog at a proper weight, please contact us.

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    Poisoning

    Surprisingly, many toxic substances taste good to dogs, including antifreeze, slug bait, rat bait, and insect poisons. A wide variety of houseplants and outside plants can also be toxic. Even foods that humans eat can be toxic to dogs and cats. If you suspect your pup has eaten poison, this is considered a Medical Emergency.

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    Skin Problems

    Your pup may develop any of a number of skin conditions, some of which are minor and some more serious. When doing body handling and grooming on your pup, be alert for signs of the following skin conditions that may need treatment. If you suspect a skin problem in your pup, contact our vet team. A variety of possible skin problems are described in the following sections.

    Pyoderma

    Pyoderma is the technical term for a bacterial skin infection. Although locations and appearance can vary, pyoderma is typically characterized by pustules (raised red bumps) on the skin that may open and drain yellowish material.

    Treatment of a pyoderma may include medicated shampoos, and/or oral antibiotics. Depending on the severity and duration of the infection, a long course of antibiotics may be prescribed. It is critical that you administer the full course of antibiotics so that the condition is completely resolved. If antibiotics are stopped early, the infection can return readily and become resistant to antibiotics. Some pyoderma in puppies can resolve on its own (see below).

    Puppy Pyoderma

    Puppy pyoderma refers to a skin infection on the abdomen characterized by pustules filled with yellow or white material. When the pustules break open, a crusty circular area may form. This condition occurs in puppies less than 1 year old, and often resolves on its own as the puppy gets older. In the meantime, the condition can be managed by using topical products or shampoos.

    Interdigital pyoderma

    Interdigital pyoderma is a skin infection that occurs between the toes, usually caused by abnormal growth of yeast or bacteria. The skin on the bottom of the feet may become red and swollen, and may exude a yellowish draining fluid or a brown pasty substance. Your dog may lick and chew at the feet, or even develop lameness, as result of an interdigital pododermatitis. Treatment for interdigital dermatitis may include topical shampoos/sprays/wipes, soaking of the feet, and/or oral antibiotics.

    Hot Spots (Acute Moist Dermatitis)

    Acute moist dermatitis, or Hot Spots, is a condition in which infected areas of skin are red and have a smelly, crusty, yellowish discharge. There are many underlying causes, including allergies or continual exposure to moisture. The area is irritating to the dog and will cause scratching, licking, and/or biting that will further traumatize the area. It is important to recognize and treat Hot Spots promptly because they can spread and worsen quickly. Treatment may involve clipping the hair from, and cleaning and drying, the affected area. It is important to keep the skin dry and, if possible, keep the dog in a low-humidity environment while the skin is healing, especially during the hot and humid summer months. Topical shampoos/sprays or wipes may be needed to reduce irritation and allow the area to heal. Antibiotics may be needed to eliminate the infection and, in more severe cases, steroids may be prescribed to reduce inflammation and irritation. To prevent acute moist dermatitis not caused by allergies, be sure to dry your pup thoroughly after getting wet, including bathing, swimming, being out in the rain, or getting saliva on the coat from another dog’s mouthing of your pup.

    Chin Pyoderma (chin acne)

    Chin acne is a common term for inflammation of the hair follicles. It typically occurs in young or adolescent dogs, and appears as reddened pustules on the chin and/or upper part of the muzzle. These pustules may drain yellowish material or they may break open and bleed. Topical acne medications are often helpful in this condition, but antibiotics may be required if there is secondary bacterial infection.

    Atopy (Allergic Dermatitis)

    Canine atopy is a hereditary skin problem in which dogs develop skin rashes and other allergic symptoms (such as itching, licking and skin lesions) after repeated exposure to allergens. Dogs without atopy would not develop these allergic symptoms. The specific allergens vary and many dogs with atopy are allergic to multiple allergens. Examples of allergens include dust mites, pollen, wool, feathers, grasses, etc. Most dogs begin to show their allergic signs between 1 and 3 years of age. Atopy is common in Labs, Golden Retrievers, and German Shepherds.

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    Tick Removal

    Our colony is regularly treated with NexGard, however, if you find a tick on a dog or puppy:

    • Grasp the tick at the head while holding tweezers next to the skin.
    • Pull firmly and steadily until the tick lets go of skin.
    • Release the tick into a jar of alcohol.
    • Clean the site with alcohol or liquid antiseptic soap.

    Please contact us if you are uncertain how to remove the tick or the wound requires additional treatment.
    Depending on how long the tick has been attached, there may be irritation or a scab on the skin where the tick was removed. This irritation is normal, but monitor the area to make sure the irritation decreases over the next week.

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    Urinary problems

    Sometimes dogs suffer from urinary tract infections. This can occur in males or females. If your puppy demonstrates some of the following signs, it can indicate a urinary tract infection:

    • increased urgency and/or frequency of urination
    • urination in the house after housebreaking is achieved
    • straining to urinate but producing little urine
    • blood present in the urine

    If you observe any of these signs, please contact us. If antibiotics are prescribed for your dog, please make sure to administer the entire course of medication and contact GDQ vets immediately if symptoms return after the antibiotic is finished.

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    Vaginitis

    Female dogs can develop inflammation of the vagina, which can be caused by viruses, bacteria, contact with cleaning agents or fecal material, and occasionally the physical conformation of the vulva. Vaginitis can also occur in conjunction with a urinary tract infection.

    Symptoms of vaginitis include a yellowish/greenish discharge from the vulva, frequent urination or squatting, or increased urgency of urination. If you note discharge, you can use antibacterial wipes to cleanse the vulval area and reduce bacterial accumulation. If your dog has continued discharge after cleansing or shows other symptoms as described, please contact our vet team for advice. Your dog may need to be treated with antibiotics.

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    Vomiting

    Why is my pup vomiting?

    Puppies and dogs will occasionally vomit a small amount of yellowish foam when they have an empty stomach. If this happens as often as 2-3 times per week, try adjusting your pup’s mealtimes.

    Puppies and dogs can also regurgitate their food if they have consumed it too quickly. Usually the entire meal is regurgitated within a few minutes after eating. If this is suspected, place a nylabone or kong toy in your dog’s dish with the food, which will slow down their eating.

    Dogs will vomit things they cannot digest, such as sticks, grass, leaves, toys, etc. Try to prevent your pup from eating inappropriate items by redirecting attention through training techniques, and by walking your pup on cleared concrete surfaces and driveways instead of on lawns.

    How do I treat minor vomiting?

    If your pup vomits once or twice per day, but has a a good appetite, and is active, notify our vet and monitor the pup carefully.

    If your pup is vomiting every 1-3 hours, but is alert, call our vet for advice and observe closely for signs of worsening.

    In either case, do not feed for 12 hours to allow the stomach to rest. You may give small amounts of water. When restarting food, follow the Bland Diet.

    How do I treat serious vomiting?

    If your pup vomits several times within an hour, acts lethargic or has no appetite call our vet immediately.
    If your pup retches repeatedly without bringing anything up, and the abdomen looks swollen or distended, this is a Life-Threatening Emergency. Take your pup to the emergency vet immediately.

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  • 3. When should I seek vet care for my dog or puppy?
     

    Guide Dogs Queensland has a veterinarian team and clinic onsite. Please speak to them as your first point of call for any medical concerns regarding one of our Guide dogs or puppies.

    Contacting Our Vet & Authorisation

    Please contact us whenever your dog is sick or you have health-related questions.

    For life-threatening emergencies only: seek medical attention from your local emergency clinic first and contact the GDQ vet team while you are there.

    For all other medical situations: preauthorization from a member of the GDQ vet staff is required for all visits to your local vet, including follow-up or subsequent visits as requested by that vet. All procedures and treatments must be authorized by the GDQ vet in advance. Failure to receive authorization from the GDQ vet before any visits to your local vet, any treatments, or any follow-up appointments will result in lack of reimbursement from GDQ.

    You may want to add the GDQ veterinary contact number, and kennels number, to your phone – these numbers are located on the Help! page.

  • 4. How do I groom my dog or puppy?
     

    Please see the below video for some information on the appropriate handling of a puppy during grooming.

  • 5. What is Body Handling and how and why do I do it?
     

    Please review the video below:

  • 6. What are Crate Games and how do I do them?
     

    Please review the below video.

  • 7. What sort of routine care do I need to give my puppy/dog?
     

    Guide Dogs is committed to maintaining the health of all of our dogs and we depend upon you to do your best in keeping your pup safe and healthy. Working together we can ensure that all Guide puppies & dogs are in best health possible. Whether raising a pup or caring for a dog from the breeding colony, your dedication to the day to day routine care of your Guide puppy or dog is a critical component of their overall health and well-being.

    In this section you will learn about the prevention of heartworm, ticks, & fleas, the importance of caring for your pup’s teeth, ears, and nails and information about grooming, bathing and the required Vaccines.

    Heartworm, Tick and Flea, and Worm Prevention

    Please ensure your dog is treated as per the schedule provided in your dog’s Blue Book, and make sure to order any required products in advance. This covers:

    • Heartworm
    • Tick & Flea
    • Roundworm, Hookworm, Whipworm and Tapeworm

    Dental Care & Teething

    Just like people, dogs can get tartar build-up and gum disease. Keep your pup healthy by providing regular, lifetime dental care.

    • Inspect gums during regular body handling, so that your pup is used to fingers in its mouth.
    • Offer your dog their Nylabone to chew on. These will help to remove tartar.
    • Check your dog’s teeth regularly for discoloration and tartar buildup.

    Retained deciduous (baby) teeth

    Puppies begin “teething” (the eruption of baby teeth) through the gums at approximately 4 weeks of age, and by about 6 weeks of age the baby teeth are completely visible in the mouth. Between 6-8 months of age, these baby, or deciduous, teeth loosen and are pushed out as the permanent (adult) teeth come through the gums. Occasionally, one or more of the deciduous teeth (most typically the canines or “fang” teeth) do not fall out, resulting in displacement of the adult teeth as they try to occupy the same space. To ensure that the adult teeth grow in properly, we will remove the retained deciduous teeth under sedation as soon as possible. If your pup has not lost its baby teeth by the time the adult teeth come in (at about six to seven months), please contact our vet.

    Ear Care & Cleaning

    Ideally, dogs should need very little care with their ears. However, some dogs build up excess wax in the lower part of the ear canal. This can become a problem, especially in breeds like Labrador Retrievers because the hanging ear flap creates a dark, moist environment that encourages bacterial and fungal growth. Ear infections can cause inflammation that thickens the lining of the ear canal, making the ear more prone to subsequent infections.

    Inspect your pup’s ears on a weekly basis. Unless there is an odor or buildup of debris it is not necessary to clean your dog’s ears with solution as over-cleaning can lead to inflammation.

    When there is a buildup of waxy debris you may clean the ears using products supplied by GDQ. Squirt a small amount of solution into the ear and massage the base of the ear for several seconds to loosen wax and debris. Allow the pup to shake its head; this allows the debris to shake loose and rise to the outer ear. Use a cotton ball or gauze pad to remove any excess liquid and debris from the outer ear.

    Occasionally a particular dog may be more prone to buildup of debris in the ears and you may be instructed by a veterinarian to clean the ears more frequently and we ask that you comply with this request.

    Dark brown debris, a yeasty odor from the ear, and/or a reddened ear canal most likely indicates an ear infection. The pup may tilt or shake its head, scratch at the ears, or rub the side of its head along the floor. If you suspect that your pup does have an ear infection, please contact our vet for direction. In the case of a suspected infection, avoid cleaning the ear beforehand so that the vet can make a proper diagnosis. However once the infection has been diagnosed, it is critical that you continue to clean and treat the ears per your vet’s instructions until the infection is completely resolved. Medicate the ear for the full time prescribed and, if the ear infection persists after the course of treatment, contact us.

    Nail Care & Grooming

    Nail Care

    Nail clipping is an important aspect of your pup’s routine care, helping to keep him healthy and developing properly. Although you are not requested to clip your dog’s nails, to be sure your dog is comfortable with nail care, please work regularly on the desensitising regime described by your Educators. GDQ staff will work on this alongside you and clip your pup’s nails during their routine visits.

    Grooming

    Grooming develops a relationship and strong bond with your pup. It teaches dogs to remain calm while being handled by others, including vet checks, swaps with other handlers/raisers, and eventually the dog’s blind partner. Grooming keeps your pup’s coat and skin in good condition, and allows you to spot parasites and skin problems. Start grooming as soon as you get your pup, and you will end up with a relaxed and easy-to-handle adult dog that enjoys being groomed. Keep grooming sessions short and fun, while praising your dog often.

      • Plan grooming sessions when your pup is tired and ready for a rest.
      • Have the pup stand with your arm for support under its belly, keep the leash and collar on for control.
      • Brush a few strokes while talking to your pup. Be gentle, calm, and firm. Brushing too hard will irritate the skin. Be especially careful when using a wire slicker brush, as brushing too firmly can scrape the skin.
        Sessions should be short, especially with small puppies that have a short attention span. Initially, groom for only a minute, and gradually lengthen the sessions as the pup will tolerate.
      • Brush in the direction that the fur lies.

    The heaviest parts of the coat need more grooming. These include the torso, front of chest, hindquarters, and tail.
    While grooming, inspect for parasites and skin problems such as fleas, ticks, redness, bumps, or scabs. A quick grooming two to three times a week should be sufficient unless your dog is shedding heavily. If your dog constantly sheds, daily grooming is advised.

  • 8. Can I get some more information about raising a puppy?
     

    Please review our Video Information Session below.

  • 9. How much should I exercise and play with my puppy/dog?
     

    Exercise and Play

    Exercise and play are an important part of caring for a dog, whether raising a pup or caring for a dog from the breeding colony. A daily program of exercise, play, and relaxation will:

    • keep your dog physically fit
    • help your pup concentrate and learn
    • lengthen lifespan and quality-of-life by increasing stamina, providing more muscle mass to protect the joints, and reducing the incidence of arthritis
    • protect against stillborn pups in whelping mothers by increasing the speed of whelping.

    It is critical to make sure that your dog is physically conditioned to tolerate the level of exercise expected. Dogs vary in their level of fitness and their ability to tolerate the increase in exercise, so they should be monitored and exercise adjusted accordingly. Gradually introduce any new exercise to your dog, thereby reducing the risk of heat stroke, soft tissue injury, and irritation to their feet.

    Remember that dogs must always be on leash when outdoors, or in a securely fenced area supervised by a responsible adult.

    Recommended

    • walking on a loose leash. The dog should not be allowed to eliminate on walks. Offer elimination time at the starting and ending points of the walk only.
    • play with GDQ pre-approved toys

    Not Allowed

    • Rough play with other dogs. (Rough play can lead to serious joint, tendon, or bone injuries, especially if the dogs are unequal in size or weight. Puppies are not physically mature and are more susceptible to injury.)
    • wrestling with humans, grabbing at clothes/hands/limbs, or chasing humans.
    • chasing cats or other small animals. (This intensifies chase behavior, which is not suitable for guide dogs.)
    • exercising that results in excessive excitability or inappropriate behavior, including inappropriate play with other dogs.
    • exercising strenuously on hot, humid days. (Stop the exercise if you notice heavy panting, heavy breathing, excessive salivation, slowing down while running, attempts to lie down, or stumbling when walking. Exercise should be less strenuous and done during the cooler parts of the day. Dogs may not show signs that they are having difficulty until it is too late.)

    Exercise Safely in Hot Weather

    Dogs can easily be affected by heat stroke, because they have limited ability to rid themselves of excess heat. Unlike humans, dogs can only perspire from the pads of their feet. Panting is another mechanism by which dogs try to cool down. Therefore, in warm weather or when exercising vigorously, you should be attentive for signs that your dog is overheating.

    Tips for Exercise

    • When outside, monitor your pup at all times. Stop your pup from digging, barking, or eating various items.
    • On hot days, provide your dog with shade and water; otherwise, heat stroke can result. Take into account the weather conditions at your chosen exercise time on any given day, and make any necessary adjustments in the amount of exercise or the time of day chosen. High temperatures and high humidity can lead to heat exhaustion or heat stroke. In extreme heat, avoid places such as baseball and soccer fields, flea markets, beaches, parks, etc. that do not offer respite from the sun. Make sure fresh, cool water is available at all times.
    • Guide Puppies and dogs tied outside or in a fenced yard must have a responsible adult out in the yard with them, supervising at all times. Do not leave your pup outside alone; you cannot effectively monitor your pup’s behavior from inside the house. Your pup could be stolen, injured, or lost.
    • If your pup is in a fenced area, check carefully for ways the dog or pup could escape. Repair any problem areas before letting the pup off-leash.
    • Teach the pup to come immediately when called.
    • Do not use playing with another dog in the fenced yard as the main means of exercise. You need to spend one-on-one time with your pup developing the human-dog relationship through play, training, exercise, and exposures.
    • Hold the leash when the pup eliminates and use the command “quick-quicks” even if you have a fenced yard.
    • Pick up feces immediately to prevent coprophagia (eating feces).
  • 10. How do I feed and water my puppy/dog?
     

    Food & Water

    Feeding time is the favorite time of the day for all dogs, especially Labradors. Because your pup will be so interested in eating, feeding time is a great opportunity for you to teach a command to your pup.

    When preparing your pup’s meal, ALWAYS use the supplied Advance measuring cup to ensure proper amount is fed!

    Food

    Always give the dog a measured amount of dry food for meals. Kibble used for food training should be removed from the measured meals to make sure your dog is getting the correct amount of food overall. DO NOT feed your dog table scraps or human food; doing so will encourage your dog to beg and to scavenge food from the ground. A successful guide dog cannot beg or scavenge for food.

    Transitioning to New Foods

    Anytime your pup needs to change food (e.g., from puppy food to adult food, or from one brand to another brand), you should transition gradually over 7-10 days. Please note food transitions should not be undertaken without approval from your Educator or the Guide Dogs vet. We can also supply a transition guide at your request.

    Continue gradual transition each day if the puppy has firm stools. Go back to the previous day’s kibble ratio if puppy has loose stool or gastro-intestinal upset. Contact your educator or vet if the puppy has gastro-intestinal upset or diarrhea that doesn’t resolve quickly.

    Puppies

    Be aware that the puppies you have at home are growing quickly and may require an increase in food while in your home. If you are concerned that a puppy is too thin, you should call your educator for directions as to how much additional food is needed per meal. Make sure to note any changes to the amount of food fed in your pup’s Blue Book so the kennel staff are aware of this change during your pup’s next stay.

    Transitioning to Two Meals Daily

    At six months of age, pups should transition from 3 meals/day to 2 meals/day. Over a week, gradually lessen the amount of food served at lunchtime, and increase (in equal parts) the amount of food given at breakfast and dinner. Carefully calculate to be sure puppy is getting the same total amount of food for the whole day eating two meals as he was when he ate three meals. Depending on the individual dog, food amounts may need to be tweaked to account for your dog’s metabolism, growth rate, and the amount of exercise he gets.

    Transitioning to Adult Dog Food

    Puppies will be transitioned to Adult food around 9 months of age. At this point their growth rate will begin to slow.

    Make sure your pup is neither overweight nor underweight. Do not feed your dog anything other than kibble, as commercial dog treats are high in fat and calories. Use kibble (part of the daily ration) for food training and treats.

    Adult Dogs

    Guide Dogs Queensland feeds Advance dry food. Sometimes dogs will be fed prescription or specialised diets at the approval of our veterinarian only.

    Feed your adult dog twice per day. In the training kennels, most dogs are fed twice daily.

    Make sure your dog is neither overweight nor underweight. Remember your dog will eat as much as you provide. It is up to you to make sure you feed the proper amount of food for your dog. The guidelines on the bag of food often overestimate the amount of food required.

    After puberty, around 10 to 12 months of age, most dogs will require less food to maintain their body weight. Do not be surprised if this is around 50 to 70% of the amount fed during peak growth periods.

    Although each dog is different, in general the Guide Dogs Queensland adult Labs eat around 2 cups of Adult food daily (1 cup in the morning and one at night).

    Bland Diet

    If you feel your pup requires a Bland Diet please let your Educator know. Generally, this diet consists of 1 part chicken to 2 parts rice, which can be mixed with water and blended together. Use boiled plain skinless chicken breast or thigh meat. Feed small regular meals.

    Water

    As a rough guide, this is how much water to weight you can expect your pup to consume. If you notice obsessive behaviours surrounding water intake, such as guzzling, digging at the water bowl or playing in it, please contact your Educator.

    10kg – 787ml per day
    15kg – 1067ml per day
    20kg – 1320ml per day
    25kg – 1565ml per day
    30kg – 1795ml per day

  • 11. What safety precautions should I take before or during having a puppy/dog home?
     

    Unfortunately, your pup can become a victim of an accident in a fraction of a second. Just like children, pups need constant vigilance. Listed below are some of the accidents that could occur during day-to-day life, along with tips for preventing these occurrences.

    Dietary Indescretion

    • Anything that does not dissolve in water can lodge in your dog’s intestine, causing vomiting, diarrhea, or more serious problems that may require surgery.
    • Do not put a cloth in or near the crate until the dog is mature enough not to chew bedding.
    • Do not give your dog toys or treats that can break into indigestible pieces, including cloth or plush toys, Greenies™ (dog bone treat for bad breath), knotted rope toys, pig ears, or rawhide bones.
    • Pay careful attention if your dog is playing with a rubber toy, and remove it when it becomes damaged. Do not allow your dog to chew or eat pieces of toys.
    • Be careful that your dog does not have access to trash or garbage cans. Corn cobs, pork chop bones, and other trash and garbage are hazardous.
    • Puppies will pick up anything in their mouths. Be especially vigilant outside for wood chips, cigarette butts, sticks, chewing gum, etc.

    Electrical Burns/Electrocution

    Chewing an electrical cord can cause burns or electrocution. To prevent chewing on electric cords, position the crate in a location where there are no wires. Puppies have a knack for snaking a paw out of the crate and pulling in items within reach. Puppies have also been known to rock their crate and move it small distances. Make sure electrical cords are inaccessible to your puppy. Although telephone cables will not give the puppy a shock, these should also be kept out of the puppy’s reach. Electric shock can cause fluid to rapidly accumulate in the lungs and result in a life-threatening situation.

    Loose, Lost or Stolen Dog

    A loose dog can be hit by a vehicle, lost, or stolen. If your dog does becomes loose, notify Guide Dogs QLD immediately. However, prevention is always best. Teach your dog to come to you when off lead. (Practice in a basement, fenced yard, enclosed tennis court, etc.) Know your neighbors and their dogs, and make sure they know yours; they can help you look. Some of the common reasons for dogs getting loose, and tips for prevention, are:

    Collar/Leash Failure

    • If a leash is chewed or frayed, don’t use it. Replace it.
    • Don’t use collars with quick-connect plastic snaps. If you grab your dog by the collar in the wrong place, it will come loose in your hand. They can also break or become loose if not completely snapped together.
    • When changing leashes outdoors, put on the second leash BEFORE disconnecting the first.

    Open doors and windows

    • Make sure you attach the leash to the dog BEFORE you open the door, even if it is the door between the house and garage. (The garage door may be open.)
    • Be sure your house doors are secure so that the dog cannot push the door open. Dogs can jump up at screen doors and either rip the screen or unlatch the lever. Make sure outside doors are child-proof so that children cannot let the dog out.
    • If there is a lot of commotion in the house (guests, party, etc.) keep the dog crated so that someone else doesn’t inadvertently let the dog out.
    • Keep windows in the car up high enough that the dog cannot jump out.
    • When getting out of the car, make sure someone is holding the leash or secure it so that the dog doesn’t jump out after you or your passenger.
    • Never leave your dog alone tied outside, in a fenced yard, or on a deck. Stay and monitor the dog, or bring the dog inside with you. The dog should ALWAYS be supervised by an adult.

    Insufficient Identification

    • Make sure dog has a buckle collar and ID tags are attached at buckle. The collar should always go with the dog (to sitters, vet, etc.)
    • Every dog should have a GDQ tag and locality license tag. Check ID tags every six months to make sure they are legible.

    Poisoning

    Surprisingly, many toxic substances taste good to dogs, including slug bait, rat bait, and insect poisons. A wide variety of houseplants and outside plants can also be toxic. Even foods that humans eat can be toxic to dogs and cats. The most common poisonings of dogs have include slug bait, ibuprofen and rat bait. In most cases, dogs were left unattended in the garage long enough to get into the poison. Poisonings are a Life Threatening Emergency.

    To prevent poisoning:

    • Unless crated, keep your pup in the room with you so that you can monitor its behavior.
    • Keep all toxic substances out of reach.

    Should poisoning or potential poisoning occur:

    • Immediately head to your closest Emergency vet and call Guide Dogs QLD when you’re on the way.

    Medications

    Please keep all medications, both prescription and over the counter, out of reach of your dogs. Medications should be kept in a closed cabinet, which the dogs cannot access, at ALL times. Dogs are curious and any medication can be a potential danger. In the event that your dog does gain access to a human medication, please contact GDQ immediately. In the unlikely event that you cannot get in touch with a member of the vet staff, hang up and call your Emergency vet. Have the name of the medication, the amount the animal might have ingested, and the weight and breed of the dog ready.

  • 12. How do I know when my puppy is reaching sexual maturity?
     

    Most Guide Dogs Queensland dogs enter the process of sexual maturation around 7 to 10 months of age. As a puppy raiser, you will need to understand how sexual maturity influences canine behavior, and the actions you can take to minimize undesirable behavior. You also must be aware of the basics of canine reproduction, so that you can take measures to avoid the possibility of unwanted canine pregnancy.

    Male Behaviors

    Males are fertile and able to impregnate a female as early as 5 months of age. Hormone-driven behaviors start to develop around 6 to 8 months of age, and strengthen with age. Puberty in male dogs is most evident through increased interest in scents of other dogs. Fortunately, a solid base of obedience, and the early work of preventing sniffing when walking, will pay off tremendously. Some of the most common male hormone driven behaviors and suggestions on managing them are listed below:

    Mounting

    Mounting is a normal behavior wherein a male dog engages in body movements used during mating. It can be stimulated by hormones or by over-excitement. (Occasionally females will exhibit mounting behavior as well.) If your dog is mounting people, other animals, or objects, redirect his attention by calling his name and asking him to perform obedience lessons he knows (e.g., sit, down). Praise for his compliance. If he does not immediately respond to your come command, or he repeats the mounting, place the dog on a leash to control his behavior.

    Urine Marking

    Our goal is to prevent male puppies from developing marking behaviors.

    • Any attempt to urine-mark should be curtailed immediately as the dog is lifting his leg, by using basic obedience commands and rewarding with kibble and praise.
    • Watch closely for sniffing around vertical surfaces, poles, bushes, or places where other dogs have marked.
    • Keep the dog in the center of the sidewalk when walking on leash, rather than closer to the grass edge.
    • Allow your dog to eliminate only on command and in a place you select, either at home or at the beginning or end of a socialization outing.
    • Direct your dog to get busy on flat ground, instead of near bushes or other vertical surfaces.
    • Do not allow your dog to sniff when walking on leash, except when getting busy or unsure of a new situation/exposure.

    Some intact dogs will urine-mark in a new environment. To prevent urine marking in the house, keep the dog on leash and with you (umbilical cord) for the first 2 days. After 2 days on leash, you can progress to a trailing leash. Keep the dog in the same room you are in for at least one week, so you can observe and direct all behavior.

    If there are more than two attempts to urine-mark, request support from your Educator.

    Penis out of sheath

    Penile erections are normal and common in male dogs. The erect penis may protrude out of the sheath (the skin covering it) as a result of sexual stimulation, or emotional stimulation such as excitement or insecurity. An erection normally lasts for a few minutes.

    • A lump (about the size of a grape or walnut) may appear under the skin near the base of the penis. This is a normal structure called the Bulbis Glandis that enlarges with an erection and subsides when the erection diminishes.
    • If the penis is enlarged and protruding from the sheath, and does not diminish in size and retract into the sheath within 10 minutes, try walking the dog on leash.
    • Applying Vaseline or K-Y Jelly to the base of the protruding penis may also assist in its withdrawal.
    • If the penis remains enlarged, you can also wet a small towel with cold water and apply it to the penis.
    • Check to see if the skin of the sheath is rolled upon itself and, if so, gently pull it backward with a massaging motion to help it unroll. If the erection persists (which is extremely rare), contact our vet for advice.

    Female Behaviors

    About Heats

    The time surrounding the fertile period of a female dog is called a heat. It lasts for about 21-28 days, and is characterized by blood spotting that is heaviest at the beginning and lessens as the heat progresses and the dog becomes more fertile. The first day of spotting is called the first day of heat.

    Females become sexually mature on average between 8 and 14 months of age. They are able to become pregnant during their first heat as well as subsequent heats. After the first heat cycle, females will then come into heat, on average, every 6 to 10 months. Occasionally a female will begin a heat cycle, then stop for a few weeks, and then come into heat again. This is called a split heat. If this happens to a female dog in your care, please call our Breeding Centre. A split heat is not an illness requiring treatment, however we still want to monitor it.

    Days or weeks before the start of blood spotting, you may notice frequent urination and/or unusual behavior such as increased concern or worry in new situations, or less tolerance with other dogs. Male dogs may start to exhibit increased interest in your female pup. Look for the following signs, which indicate that your female dog has started heat:

    • Vaginal discharge of small spots of blood or pink discharge.
    • Enlargement of the external genitalia (vulva).
    • Excessive licking of vulva (you may not see any blood if brood is very fastidious about cleaning herself).

    Confirm the start of heat by wiping white tissue on the vulva, preferably before urinating, to identify vaginal discharge. Do this daily and report the heat start date to our Breeding Centre by calling 3500 9009. Females in heat must be brought into the Breeding Centre for our staff to monitor them during their season.

  • 1. How much should I exercise and play with my puppy/dog?
     

    Exercise and Play

    Exercise and play are an important part of caring for a dog, whether raising a pup or caring for a dog from the breeding colony. A daily program of exercise, play, and relaxation will:

    • keep your dog physically fit
    • help your pup concentrate and learn
    • lengthen lifespan and quality-of-life by increasing stamina, providing more muscle mass to protect the joints, and reducing the incidence of arthritis
    • protect against stillborn pups in whelping mothers by increasing the speed of whelping.

    It is critical to make sure that your dog is physically conditioned to tolerate the level of exercise expected. Dogs vary in their level of fitness and their ability to tolerate the increase in exercise, so they should be monitored and exercise adjusted accordingly. Gradually introduce any new exercise to your dog, thereby reducing the risk of heat stroke, soft tissue injury, and irritation to their feet.

    Remember that dogs must always be on leash when outdoors, or in a securely fenced area supervised by a responsible adult.

    Recommended

    • walking on a loose leash. The dog should not be allowed to eliminate on walks. Offer elimination time at the starting and ending points of the walk only.
    • play with GDQ pre-approved toys

    Not Allowed

    • Rough play with other dogs. (Rough play can lead to serious joint, tendon, or bone injuries, especially if the dogs are unequal in size or weight. Puppies are not physically mature and are more susceptible to injury.)
    • wrestling with humans, grabbing at clothes/hands/limbs, or chasing humans.
    • chasing cats or other small animals. (This intensifies chase behavior, which is not suitable for guide dogs.)
    • exercising that results in excessive excitability or inappropriate behavior, including inappropriate play with other dogs.
    • exercising strenuously on hot, humid days. (Stop the exercise if you notice heavy panting, heavy breathing, excessive salivation, slowing down while running, attempts to lie down, or stumbling when walking. Exercise should be less strenuous and done during the cooler parts of the day. Dogs may not show signs that they are having difficulty until it is too late.)

    Exercise Safely in Hot Weather

    Dogs can easily be affected by heat stroke, because they have limited ability to rid themselves of excess heat. Unlike humans, dogs can only perspire from the pads of their feet. Panting is another mechanism by which dogs try to cool down. Therefore, in warm weather or when exercising vigorously, you should be attentive for signs that your dog is overheating.

    Tips for Exercise

    • When outside, monitor your pup at all times. Stop your pup from digging, barking, or eating various items.
    • On hot days, provide your dog with shade and water; otherwise, heat stroke can result. Take into account the weather conditions at your chosen exercise time on any given day, and make any necessary adjustments in the amount of exercise or the time of day chosen. High temperatures and high humidity can lead to heat exhaustion or heat stroke. In extreme heat, avoid places such as baseball and soccer fields, flea markets, beaches, parks, etc. that do not offer respite from the sun. Make sure fresh, cool water is available at all times.
    • Guide Puppies and dogs tied outside or in a fenced yard must have a responsible adult out in the yard with them, supervising at all times. Do not leave your pup outside alone; you cannot effectively monitor your pup’s behavior from inside the house. Your pup could be stolen, injured, or lost.
    • If your pup is in a fenced area, check carefully for ways the dog or pup could escape. Repair any problem areas before letting the pup off-leash.
    • Teach the pup to come immediately when called.
    • Do not use playing with another dog in the fenced yard as the main means of exercise. You need to spend one-on-one time with your pup developing the human-dog relationship through play, training, exercise, and exposures.
    • Hold the leash when the pup eliminates and use the command “quick-quicks” even if you have a fenced yard.
    • Pick up feces immediately to prevent coprophagia (eating feces).
  • 2. How do I feed and water my puppy/dog?
     

    Food & Water

    Feeding time is the favorite time of the day for all dogs, especially Labradors. Because your pup will be so interested in eating, feeding time is a great opportunity for you to teach a command to your pup.

    When preparing your pup’s meal, ALWAYS use the supplied Advance measuring cup to ensure proper amount is fed!

    Food

    Always give the dog a measured amount of dry food for meals. Kibble used for food training should be removed from the measured meals to make sure your dog is getting the correct amount of food overall. DO NOT feed your dog table scraps or human food; doing so will encourage your dog to beg and to scavenge food from the ground. A successful guide dog cannot beg or scavenge for food.

    Transitioning to New Foods

    Anytime your pup needs to change food (e.g., from puppy food to adult food, or from one brand to another brand), you should transition gradually over 7-10 days. Please note food transitions should not be undertaken without approval from your Educator or the Guide Dogs vet. We can also supply a transition guide at your request.

    Continue gradual transition each day if the puppy has firm stools. Go back to the previous day’s kibble ratio if puppy has loose stool or gastro-intestinal upset. Contact your educator or vet if the puppy has gastro-intestinal upset or diarrhea that doesn’t resolve quickly.

    Puppies

    Be aware that the puppies you have at home are growing quickly and may require an increase in food while in your home. If you are concerned that a puppy is too thin, you should call your educator for directions as to how much additional food is needed per meal. Make sure to note any changes to the amount of food fed in your pup’s Blue Book so the kennel staff are aware of this change during your pup’s next stay.

    Transitioning to Two Meals Daily

    At six months of age, pups should transition from 3 meals/day to 2 meals/day. Over a week, gradually lessen the amount of food served at lunchtime, and increase (in equal parts) the amount of food given at breakfast and dinner. Carefully calculate to be sure puppy is getting the same total amount of food for the whole day eating two meals as he was when he ate three meals. Depending on the individual dog, food amounts may need to be tweaked to account for your dog’s metabolism, growth rate, and the amount of exercise he gets.

    Transitioning to Adult Dog Food

    Puppies will be transitioned to Adult food around 9 months of age. At this point their growth rate will begin to slow.

    Make sure your pup is neither overweight nor underweight. Do not feed your dog anything other than kibble, as commercial dog treats are high in fat and calories. Use kibble (part of the daily ration) for food training and treats.

    Adult Dogs

    Guide Dogs Queensland feeds Advance dry food. Sometimes dogs will be fed prescription or specialised diets at the approval of our veterinarian only.

    Feed your adult dog twice per day. In the training kennels, most dogs are fed twice daily.

    Make sure your dog is neither overweight nor underweight. Remember your dog will eat as much as you provide. It is up to you to make sure you feed the proper amount of food for your dog. The guidelines on the bag of food often overestimate the amount of food required.

    After puberty, around 10 to 12 months of age, most dogs will require less food to maintain their body weight. Do not be surprised if this is around 50 to 70% of the amount fed during peak growth periods.

    Although each dog is different, in general the Guide Dogs Queensland adult Labs eat around 2 cups of Adult food daily (1 cup in the morning and one at night).

    Bland Diet

    If you feel your pup requires a Bland Diet please let your Educator know. Generally, this diet consists of 1 part chicken to 2 parts rice, which can be mixed with water and blended together. Use boiled plain skinless chicken breast or thigh meat. Feed small regular meals.

    Water

    As a rough guide, this is how much water to weight you can expect your pup to consume. If you notice obsessive behaviours surrounding water intake, such as guzzling, digging at the water bowl or playing in it, please contact your Educator.

    10kg – 787ml per day
    15kg – 1067ml per day
    20kg – 1320ml per day
    25kg – 1565ml per day
    30kg – 1795ml per day

  • 3. What safety precautions should I take before or during having a puppy/dog home?
     

    Unfortunately, your pup can become a victim of an accident in a fraction of a second. Just like children, pups need constant vigilance. Listed below are some of the accidents that could occur during day-to-day life, along with tips for preventing these occurrences.

    Dietary Indescretion

    • Anything that does not dissolve in water can lodge in your dog’s intestine, causing vomiting, diarrhea, or more serious problems that may require surgery.
    • Do not put a cloth in or near the crate until the dog is mature enough not to chew bedding.
    • Do not give your dog toys or treats that can break into indigestible pieces, including cloth or plush toys, Greenies™ (dog bone treat for bad breath), knotted rope toys, pig ears, or rawhide bones.
    • Pay careful attention if your dog is playing with a rubber toy, and remove it when it becomes damaged. Do not allow your dog to chew or eat pieces of toys.
    • Be careful that your dog does not have access to trash or garbage cans. Corn cobs, pork chop bones, and other trash and garbage are hazardous.
    • Puppies will pick up anything in their mouths. Be especially vigilant outside for wood chips, cigarette butts, sticks, chewing gum, etc.

    Electrical Burns/Electrocution

    Chewing an electrical cord can cause burns or electrocution. To prevent chewing on electric cords, position the crate in a location where there are no wires. Puppies have a knack for snaking a paw out of the crate and pulling in items within reach. Puppies have also been known to rock their crate and move it small distances. Make sure electrical cords are inaccessible to your puppy. Although telephone cables will not give the puppy a shock, these should also be kept out of the puppy’s reach. Electric shock can cause fluid to rapidly accumulate in the lungs and result in a life-threatening situation.

    Loose, Lost or Stolen Dog

    A loose dog can be hit by a vehicle, lost, or stolen. If your dog does becomes loose, notify Guide Dogs QLD immediately. However, prevention is always best. Teach your dog to come to you when off lead. (Practice in a basement, fenced yard, enclosed tennis court, etc.) Know your neighbors and their dogs, and make sure they know yours; they can help you look. Some of the common reasons for dogs getting loose, and tips for prevention, are:

    Collar/Leash Failure

    • If a leash is chewed or frayed, don’t use it. Replace it.
    • Don’t use collars with quick-connect plastic snaps. If you grab your dog by the collar in the wrong place, it will come loose in your hand. They can also break or become loose if not completely snapped together.
    • When changing leashes outdoors, put on the second leash BEFORE disconnecting the first.

    Open doors and windows

    • Make sure you attach the leash to the dog BEFORE you open the door, even if it is the door between the house and garage. (The garage door may be open.)
    • Be sure your house doors are secure so that the dog cannot push the door open. Dogs can jump up at screen doors and either rip the screen or unlatch the lever. Make sure outside doors are child-proof so that children cannot let the dog out.
    • If there is a lot of commotion in the house (guests, party, etc.) keep the dog crated so that someone else doesn’t inadvertently let the dog out.
    • Keep windows in the car up high enough that the dog cannot jump out.
    • When getting out of the car, make sure someone is holding the leash or secure it so that the dog doesn’t jump out after you or your passenger.
    • Never leave your dog alone tied outside, in a fenced yard, or on a deck. Stay and monitor the dog, or bring the dog inside with you. The dog should ALWAYS be supervised by an adult.

    Insufficient Identification

    • Make sure dog has a buckle collar and ID tags are attached at buckle. The collar should always go with the dog (to sitters, vet, etc.)
    • Every dog should have a GDQ tag and locality license tag. Check ID tags every six months to make sure they are legible.

    Poisoning

    Surprisingly, many toxic substances taste good to dogs, including slug bait, rat bait, and insect poisons. A wide variety of houseplants and outside plants can also be toxic. Even foods that humans eat can be toxic to dogs and cats. The most common poisonings of dogs have include slug bait, ibuprofen and rat bait. In most cases, dogs were left unattended in the garage long enough to get into the poison. Poisonings are a Life Threatening Emergency.

    To prevent poisoning:

    • Unless crated, keep your pup in the room with you so that you can monitor its behavior.
    • Keep all toxic substances out of reach.

    Should poisoning or potential poisoning occur:

    • Immediately head to your closest Emergency vet and call Guide Dogs QLD when you’re on the way.

    Medications

    Please keep all medications, both prescription and over the counter, out of reach of your dogs. Medications should be kept in a closed cabinet, which the dogs cannot access, at ALL times. Dogs are curious and any medication can be a potential danger. In the event that your dog does gain access to a human medication, please contact GDQ immediately. In the unlikely event that you cannot get in touch with a member of the vet staff, hang up and call your Emergency vet. Have the name of the medication, the amount the animal might have ingested, and the weight and breed of the dog ready.

  • 4. How do I groom my dog or puppy?
     

    Please see the below video for some information on the appropriate handling of a puppy during grooming.

  • 5. How can I get my puppy to walk nicely on lead? (Loose leash walking)
     

    Please review our video below:

  • 6. How do I know when my puppy is reaching sexual maturity?
     

    Most Guide Dogs Queensland dogs enter the process of sexual maturation around 7 to 10 months of age. As a puppy raiser, you will need to understand how sexual maturity influences canine behavior, and the actions you can take to minimize undesirable behavior. You also must be aware of the basics of canine reproduction, so that you can take measures to avoid the possibility of unwanted canine pregnancy.

    Male Behaviors

    Males are fertile and able to impregnate a female as early as 5 months of age. Hormone-driven behaviors start to develop around 6 to 8 months of age, and strengthen with age. Puberty in male dogs is most evident through increased interest in scents of other dogs. Fortunately, a solid base of obedience, and the early work of preventing sniffing when walking, will pay off tremendously. Some of the most common male hormone driven behaviors and suggestions on managing them are listed below:

    Mounting

    Mounting is a normal behavior wherein a male dog engages in body movements used during mating. It can be stimulated by hormones or by over-excitement. (Occasionally females will exhibit mounting behavior as well.) If your dog is mounting people, other animals, or objects, redirect his attention by calling his name and asking him to perform obedience lessons he knows (e.g., sit, down). Praise for his compliance. If he does not immediately respond to your come command, or he repeats the mounting, place the dog on a leash to control his behavior.

    Urine Marking

    Our goal is to prevent male puppies from developing marking behaviors.

    • Any attempt to urine-mark should be curtailed immediately as the dog is lifting his leg, by using basic obedience commands and rewarding with kibble and praise.
    • Watch closely for sniffing around vertical surfaces, poles, bushes, or places where other dogs have marked.
    • Keep the dog in the center of the sidewalk when walking on leash, rather than closer to the grass edge.
    • Allow your dog to eliminate only on command and in a place you select, either at home or at the beginning or end of a socialization outing.
    • Direct your dog to get busy on flat ground, instead of near bushes or other vertical surfaces.
    • Do not allow your dog to sniff when walking on leash, except when getting busy or unsure of a new situation/exposure.

    Some intact dogs will urine-mark in a new environment. To prevent urine marking in the house, keep the dog on leash and with you (umbilical cord) for the first 2 days. After 2 days on leash, you can progress to a trailing leash. Keep the dog in the same room you are in for at least one week, so you can observe and direct all behavior.

    If there are more than two attempts to urine-mark, request support from your Educator.

    Penis out of sheath

    Penile erections are normal and common in male dogs. The erect penis may protrude out of the sheath (the skin covering it) as a result of sexual stimulation, or emotional stimulation such as excitement or insecurity. An erection normally lasts for a few minutes.

    • A lump (about the size of a grape or walnut) may appear under the skin near the base of the penis. This is a normal structure called the Bulbis Glandis that enlarges with an erection and subsides when the erection diminishes.
    • If the penis is enlarged and protruding from the sheath, and does not diminish in size and retract into the sheath within 10 minutes, try walking the dog on leash.
    • Applying Vaseline or K-Y Jelly to the base of the protruding penis may also assist in its withdrawal.
    • If the penis remains enlarged, you can also wet a small towel with cold water and apply it to the penis.
    • Check to see if the skin of the sheath is rolled upon itself and, if so, gently pull it backward with a massaging motion to help it unroll. If the erection persists (which is extremely rare), contact our vet for advice.

    Female Behaviors

    About Heats

    The time surrounding the fertile period of a female dog is called a heat. It lasts for about 21-28 days, and is characterized by blood spotting that is heaviest at the beginning and lessens as the heat progresses and the dog becomes more fertile. The first day of spotting is called the first day of heat.

    Females become sexually mature on average between 8 and 14 months of age. They are able to become pregnant during their first heat as well as subsequent heats. After the first heat cycle, females will then come into heat, on average, every 6 to 10 months. Occasionally a female will begin a heat cycle, then stop for a few weeks, and then come into heat again. This is called a split heat. If this happens to a female dog in your care, please call our Breeding Centre. A split heat is not an illness requiring treatment, however we still want to monitor it.

    Days or weeks before the start of blood spotting, you may notice frequent urination and/or unusual behavior such as increased concern or worry in new situations, or less tolerance with other dogs. Male dogs may start to exhibit increased interest in your female pup. Look for the following signs, which indicate that your female dog has started heat:

    • Vaginal discharge of small spots of blood or pink discharge.
    • Enlargement of the external genitalia (vulva).
    • Excessive licking of vulva (you may not see any blood if brood is very fastidious about cleaning herself).

    Confirm the start of heat by wiping white tissue on the vulva, preferably before urinating, to identify vaginal discharge. Do this daily and report the heat start date to our Breeding Centre by calling 3500 9009. Females in heat must be brought into the Breeding Centre for our staff to monitor them during their season.

  • 7. What is Body Handling and how and why do I do it?
     

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